Madison Chophouse a cut above

By Dennis R. Getto
Journal Sentinel dining critic

Published: Dec. 14, 2003

I'll admit that I was expecting the slab of beef that our server delivered to our table at the Capitol Chophouse in Madison. What I wasn't expecting was a slab of salmon. But there it was, almost 2 inches thick, set in front of my friend.

Madison has always been a good town for steak. On any given weekend, the parking lot at Smoky's Club will brim over with cars, and crowds will pack the Tornado Club and Johnny Delmonico's. Some folks on the hunt for red meat are now also venturing to this 100-seat restaurant that opened in late June at the Hilton Hotel just off Capitol Square. If they do, they may find themselves surprised, as I was, that the Capitol Chophouse delivers more than satisfying cuts of steak and chops.

The salmon ($21.95) was an excellent example of this.

Wild surf, primal turf

Instead of the more common farm-raised salmon, Chophouse Chef Darcy Sonsalla (who used to work at the old Opera House two blocks west of the Hilton) chose wild salmon, prized for its deep-colored flesh and bold flavor. The menu said that the fish had never been frozen and had been line-caught, a detail that seafood enthusiasts appreciate because catching the fish on a line is said to do less damage to it than catching it in a net.

A fish with this much flavor stood up to grilling splendidly and arrived at our table with a crisp, smoky exterior and a creamy center that melted like mousse on our tongues. A red wine reduction sauce (made from Pinot Noir) seemed like the perfect pairing for the salmon's naturally rich flavor.

And then there was the steak.

After assurances from our server that the 18-ounce bone-in rib-eye ($26.95) was a good choice, I ordered it.

The thick, glistening steak, with its rib bone still attached, arrived still sizzling from the grill. According to the Chophouse menu, all its steaks are aged 28 days, and I had no doubt about that fact as I eased the first chunk into my mouth. Such aging does two things to meat: It breaks down any last traces of toughness, and it brings the steak's natural flavor to fullness.

It achieved both for the rib-eye. Ordered medium, it was appropriately firm, yet tender. Its rich, complex flavor, enhanced by good grilling, seemed to capture the primal elements of earth and fire in every bite.

Pork and prime

A thick, double-cut Iowa-raised pork chop ($23) delivered its own delights. In these days of leaner pork, producing a perfect chop on a grill requires some skill - leave the meat on the fire a moment too long and you pass the pointy of no return in the tenderness department.

This chop was marvelously meaty and tender, with nothing but the flavor of the flame to interfere with its natural goodness. Chunks of the meat that I cut off and passed to three other dining companions evoked loud notes of hummed approval.

If for some odd reason I didn't want to order steak on a subsequent visit to the Capitol Chophouse, I know that prime rib ($19.95 for 12 ounces, $23.95 for a full pound) would be a more-than-acceptable substitute: The well-marbled meat that had been carefully roasted delivered a delightful, range of beef flavor from its smokier outer reaches to its satiny center.

One of the bigger surprises of my two visits was a 14-ounce veal rib chop ($36.50). Though such chops are immensely popular, they don't always deliver a lot of flavor. But the combination of top grade meat and great grilling worked out to create a winner. The veal had a marvelously mature taste that we accented with a side order of sauteed mushrooms ($3.95). A veal demi-glace sauce and splash of Cognac in which the mushrooms were served made for a heavenly marriage of flavors.

Our final entree, Chilean sea bass ($20.95), proved as delicious as it was politically correct. Chilean sea bass have been subject to overfishing in recent years and environmental organizations list them as a species to be avoided. In this case, the words "farm-raised" on the menu quelled those concerns.

The first bite of the velvety white fish in its sweet Tequila-lime-sugar sauce removed any remaining trepidations: The fish was flat-out fantastic.

Attention to the extras

Each entree was served with sauteed vegetables - spinach, red bell pepper strips and red onions - and with chewy, fresh dinner rolls that we could top with unsalted or pesto butter or a lively spread of cream and blue cheese.

Like most steak houses, the Capitol Chophouse's menu is a la carte, so a tab can run up quickly. In its defense, I offer the fact that all but one side dish showed the same attention to detail that the entrees had and was big enough for two or three people.

A chopped salad ($6.95) was one of the best I've eaten, delivered molded into a cake-like form and covered with a sweet bacon dressing. Hearts of Caesar Salad ($6.95) was made of the inner, most tender Romaine leaves with shaved Parmesan, a homemade, cracker-like Parmesan crisp and a little anchovy. And a salad called The Wedge ($6.95) was remarkably retro - a wedge of iceberg lettuce topped with homemade blue cheese dressing, hard-boiled eggs, mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and chunks of fried bacon that added a pleasant, smoky note.

For appetizers, I especially appreciated the way the flavors of wild mushrooms and creamy goat cheese played off in a delicate tart ($7.95). But I couldn't taste any of the lobster that had been combined with crab in something the Chophouse called Seafood Cakes ($8.95).

Desserts ($6.95) didn't disappoint. Dense white cake with a caramel-almond sauce, trifle with marinated raspberries and creme brulee were all expertly made. (The dessert menu changes frequently.)

The only disappointment of the two meals was lobster bisque ($3.95), a soup that requires a laborious process of shell cooking to get full flavor. The lack of that flavor in the end product disappointed.

But excellent service and a classy, clubby atmosphere (high cherry wainscoting, lots of indirect light) created enough atmosphere to make the meal memorable. For those with friends or children in Madison, this is a great spot for a special dinner where just about everyone should find something to like.

Capitol Chophouse (At the Monona Terrace Hilton Madison) 9 E. Wilson St. Madison,WI 53703 (608) 255-0165   At the Monona Terrace Hilton Madison 9 E. Wilson St., Madison (608) 255-0165 This is the ideal place for a special dinner if you find yourself in Madison. The atmosphere is clubby, the menu is a la carte, and the food is excellent whether you order a signature steak or chop of one of the fresh fish on the menu. Desserts, salads and appetizers all show a dedication to quality. (Dennis R. Getto, 12/14/03) Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday, Monday-Saturday (All hours listed are subject to change.) Cuisine Type: Steak House   Meals served: Lunch, Dinner. Smoking: Smoking is not allowed.. Prices: Lunch $7.25-$14.95; dinner $17.95-$36.50. MAP | Get Driving Directions | Expand Map  | What's Nearby What All Cuisines American Bakery Barbecue Brew Pub Cajun/Creole Chinese Coffee House Continental Critic's Choice Deli French German Greek Indian Int'l Misc Italian Japanese Mexican/Tex-Mex Middle Eastern Pizza Polish Seafood Soul Food Soups Steak House Tea Room Thai Vegetarian Vietnamese Where Southeast Wisconsin Milwaukee County Milwaukee Downtown/East -- Kenosha County Ozaukee County Racine County Washington County Waukesha County -- Fond Du Lac County Dodge County Jefferson County Sheboygan County Walworth County -- Green Bay/Door County Madison/Dane County All Wisconsin When All Meals BreakFast Brunch Lunch Dinner Late Night Choose One Full Restaurant Directory Dining Guide Only Restaurant name (optional):